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Sunset, September 18. It was the first day of Rosh Hashanah, but in the SkyLine Banquet Hall of the Space Needle, you might assume that it was the seventh day of Christmas. Blessedly, instead of seven lords aleaping, there were seven mixologists pouring for the Providence O’Christmas Trees Signature Cocktail Contest. Seven local establishments chose one of their bar staff to concoct a cocktail to serve as the signature spirit for the O’Christmas Trees Gala in December. Though each of the entries included Grey Goose vodka, each had its own unique flavor. The results were—one might say—well-mixed, ranging from sublime to subpar.

A gala demands a drink that is delicious even when produced in high volume, and the winner proved that sometimes the best things are also the simplest. The cocktails that did not win the night might taste better when crafted with care, so even if we don’t review them highly, curious cocktail enthusiasts might consider visiting some of these mixologists to try their handiwork or mixing one of these at their own party this holiday season.

Entry 1: TASTE of Christmas
Establishment: TASTE Restaurant
Mixologist: Duncan Chase

Mr Chase has participated six times in the Signature Cocktail contest and has won twice, so event veterans were eager to try his newest creation, which—as Mr Chase described it—was meant to combine various flavors, a full day of feasting, in one drink. The notes, he said, should unfold individually, not come in a mélange. Mr Chase certainly gets points for creating natural fig and ginger syrups to flavor the drink, and the idea is certainly an original one. He even said that the manager asked how he “comes up with these things.” After tasting it, I was wont to ask the same thing.

One certainly should notice that the ginger arises smoothly after the other flavors have faded, but much of it was overpowered by the lime juice—even the cinnamon sugar rim. On that note, a sugar rim is not the best idea for a gala anyways. I know that I am not the only person on earth who finds it a tad tacky anywhere but in a cabana or on a dessert cocktail. Regardless of one’s aesthetic preferences, the havoc it reeks on lipstick, the sparkling lip crust it can give most anyone, and the mere messiness of it will compel not a few people to specify no sugar on the rim—ultimately an inconvenience to staff and guests alike.

Personal Review: I might recommend trying it at TASTE this winter, where it will be featured on their seasonal drink menu.
Overheard Review: “That’s not a TASTE of Christmas. It’s a WASTE of Grey Goose.” Ouch.

Entry 2: Under the Down Comforter
Establishment: The Great Nabob
Mixologist: Palani Stewart

Mr Stewart and I share a love of classic Vespers, the drink that inspired him to use Lillet Blanc in the base of this layered cocktail, which is topped by a thin “comforter” of whipping cream blended with Stroh. However, I would never compare this drink with the Vesper,as it may discourage others from trying my old favorite.

Before even tasting this entry, I had to grimace at the slightly suggestive name, which might play in a college bar or a rowdy ski lodge, but not at a gala. Instead of a “down comforter,” think of it as “stroh snow.” Play on the Vesper’s religious name, pun it up, and call it a “Stroh Angel,” for all I care. If one is attached to the “down comforter,” leave out the “under” and reference the Goose in it.

In all events, the name would be a minor problem if the drink were any good, but the textures and flavors simply did not combine well, ultimately coming off like a cream soda that had separated. Like the sugar rim in the first entry, the cream layer will alienate guests who avoid messy drinks, or who, like me, cannot justify imbibing pure milk-fat when the flavor is lacking. There will be plenty of rich food at the gala; one doesn’t need an insipid, melted milkshake to top it off.

Personal Review: Mr Stewart has been mixing at The Great Nabob for nine years and was friendly and enthusiastic. His entry was a sheer dud, but he probably makes a wonderful Vesper.
Overheard Review: “Thanks, but I don’t want to try that one. Will someone else drink it?”

Designer and perennial Providence O'Christmas Trees People's Choice Award Winner Phillip Sternola with Diane Sabey of Sabey Construction looking lovely in leopard.

Entry 3: Silver Belle
Establishment: Oliver’s at Mayflower Park
Mixologist: Craig Debolt

The young Mr Debolt has been behind the bar only two years, but he certainly knows how to craft a fine cocktail for a gala. This is the silver anniversary of the O’Christmas Trees gala, and the clever title pays homage to the occasion and to all the belles of the ball. The drink is almost dangerously smooth, with a floral sweetness provided by the St Germain and tempered by citrus. Of course, the bubbles keep it lively on the palate.

As far as champagne cocktails go, this one surpasses even the classic French 75 in appeal, I think. According to the final tallies, this drink surpassed all the other cocktails that evening and will be the 2009 signature cocktail at the O’Christmas Trees Gala.

Personal Review: The gala in December seems so far away. I may need to stop by Oliver’s for one of these long before the big night.
Overheard Review: “We really ought to go to Oliver’s more often.”

Entry 4: Santa’s Rocket Fuel
Establishment: SkyCity at the Needle
Mixologist: Dan Minjares

This whimsically named cocktail certainly had the most immediate visual appeal of the night’s entries. A plain cherry garnish somehow gave it all a festive look, and the diesel-like appearance of the drink itself certainly called to mind some sort of fuel. Mixologist and SkyCity manager Dan Minjares—pictured at the top of this page—was most dapper and enthusiastic. Approaching the table, one almost felt like one was about to see a sly peddler hawking nostrums, but Mr Minjares was nothing but genuine and jolly. At the end of the night, he was named the most congenial bartender. Up until that point, one might have guessed that he would take the prize for best cocktail, too, for his table was surrounded by guests openly declaring that his cocktail was without a doubt their favorite that night. Fans included Jana Williams, 2009 Board President for the Marianwood Foundation, and the indefatigable and divine fundraiser extraordinaire Patricia Szabo.

Mr Minjares said that Santa’s Rocket Fuel was a spin on his whiskey sour recipe. However, the cinnamon and nutmeg added before mixing and after pouring gave the drink more kick than the traditional recipe and a festive flair.

Personal Review: This was my favorite entry of the night, and I am not the least bit embarrassed to admit that I went back to refuel after tasting all the others. It is a perfect seasonal party drink.
Overheard Review: I heard the phrase, “This is the best,” many, many times. Methinks Mr Minjares might be seeing more business at his bar this holiday season. 

Beauties Marianna Veress and Jia Wen with a very jolly Saint Nick. Jiawen Shi stunned us in a beautifully structured Michael Kors blouse, Fendi gold chain and Miu Miu shoes. Veress sported a new favorite dress she picked up while traveling on the Buda side of Budapest. Saint Nick was still charming, even though he has worn the same outfit for decades now.

Entry 5: Sugar and Spice
Establishment: Sazerac
Mixologist: Jeshua Madden

As guests approached, the charming Mr Madden declared that this was the most “Christmasy” drink that they would taste that night. I think that we might have very different views regarding what “Christmasy” might be. My vision of the holiday includes nothing about jamming cinnamon sticks into my nostrils, but the overwhelming flavor of the Glögg made tasting this drink a comparable experience. If Mr Madden had used a fraction of the Glögg, then it might have contributed a pleasant warmth to the cocktail. The rest of the ingredients probably blended well. If only I could have tasted them...

Personal Review: Sugar and Spice...I can say nothing nice. I finished my sample merely to be polite to the creator and to prove my mettle to myself.
Overheard Review: “Tastes a little like Jägermeister.” “But worse.”

Entry 6: Deep Red Bells
Establishment: The Feedback Lounge
Mixologist: Drew Braithwaite

This vermilion potion was the enigma of the night. The sweet, nutty Falernum combined with the piquant Aperol alone would have made this a complex flavor, but the addition of fruit flavors and sage made it truly...exotic. Few would call it delicious, but it was too unique to not be enjoyed by guests with adventurous palates.

Perhaps I can put it no better than veteran O’Christmas Trees supporter Liza Ragan of Choice Linens, who remarked sagely: “I like it. It’s something that I could enjoy at a cocktail bar, but it’s a little too abstract for a large crowd. Most people probably aren’t even familiar with Aperol. They’ll think that it sounds like something off the periodic table.”

Lovely Liza speaks the truth, and the fact that this formula was a tad advanced was manifestly clear when one saw ten feet from the serving table a tray full of abandoned cups still half-full. I think that this did not go unnoticed by the creator, Drew Braithwaite, who seemed rather distracted while he stoically mixed another round. Perhaps, like many artists, he prefers to remain as mysterious as his creations. In all events, I salute the daring displayed in his entry.

Personal Review: Tastes like Christmas as it might be celebrated on Mars. Appropriate, I suppose, for a cocktail party in the Space Needle, but not quite right for the gala.
Overheard Review: Only a conspicuous, confused silence.

Entry 7: Joyeux Noël
Establishment: The Leary Traveler
Mixologist: Travis Scott

Ideally, in any competition of this nature, one should cleanse one’s palate between tastes, but by table 7 I think that many guests had very confused tongues and were just eager to move on to the buffet. That may have worked against this already rather uninspired entry. It seemed that the creator had only bothered to use vodka because it was required, and so he added a shot of it to a slightly modified Side Car. The ingredients only weakened each other, and its unattenuated sourness had a bite more befitting a funeral than a fundraiser. One might say that this drink was less a Side Car than a Side Hearse.

All in all, it didn’t matter if the guests’ palates were wrecked before reaching this table because they would have been at least slightly damaged before leaving it. The staff were friendly, though. I could not feign much excitement for his creation, so I did not interrupt mixologist Travis Scott, who was animatedly chatting with guests. His assisting cocktailer, Erin, was very sweet, so one could not walk away completely sour at the experience.

Personal Review: Noël? Hell no. This one was a real Scrooge.
Overheard Review: “Well, that’s all of them. Let’s get some food and go back to the Rocket Fuel man.”

Rob Wells of Bacardi USA congratulates Craig Debolt as the winner of the 2009 Signature Cocktail Contest for his delicious and dazzling Silver Belle.